Introduction
Coming to Thailand from neighbouring Vietnam, I had little expectations with regard to coffee culture. You see, I had travelled throughout Thailand over a decade ago and I hadn’t observed a very prominent coffee culture. The landscape was dominated by Thai iced tea (cha-yen) and Coke, with coffee culture seemingly absent. Thailand is a coffee producer, yet most of its exports are, surprisingly, instant granules.
Fast forward fifteen years, and imagine my surprise when every other corner of Bangkok we observed another coffee shop. How the beans have turned! From international chain stores to speciality coffee shops and everything in-between, Thailand has it all. Independent cafés now largely dominate the scene. Friendly baristas serve you anything from classic brews to modern concoctions.
This phenomenon is not limited to Bangkok; the coffee revolution has spread from rural Isaan to the southern provinces. What sparked this dramatic change? Let’s dive into the fascinating story of Thai coffee – the old, the new, and the modern – and discover how this once-understated beverage has become a national obsession.
The Old, the New and the Modern
Coffee culture in the Kingdom is a mix of cultural influences inherited from northern Chinese immigration, southern Malay influences and evolving consumer Western tastes.
The traditional Thai coffee, Oliang (โอเลี้ยง), is brewed using a sock-like cotton filter called tungdtom (ถุงต้ม). Oliang is typically served iced and packs quite a punch; both from the caffeine and the sugar. This same contraption is also used for brewing Thai tea the traditional way. Whilst Oliang can still be enjoyed throughout Thailand, it is most often found at local eateries as opposed to trendy, air-conditioned shops.
It is another story in the Southern part of Thailand where a kopitiam culture, of coffeehouses serving traditional coffee and tea adopted from Malay and Chinese culture, is still alive. There are a few kopitiam establishments in Bangkok too.
Es-Yen was the next iteration in Thailand’s coffee culture. Es-yen is not just an espresso shot with ice, but traditionally, it is coffee mixed with condensed milk and evaporated milk. I remember fifteen years ago when a friend of mine went into a green mermaid coffee shop wanting an Es Yen only to come across a confused barista saying ‘No, we don’t make Es Yen here’. Back then, Italian-style coffee was still pretty new to Thailand.
The modern iteration of coffee is predominantly centred around espresso. Specialty Coffee has become a staple in the high-end cafés of Bangkok and beyond. Premium beans sourced both locally and internationally are blended together to deliver intricate house roasts. In some exclusive establishments, pour-over speciality coffees can cost 500 baht (£12/$15) or more. These stores typically provide any brewing method you wish and have access to expensive espresso machines.
A key barrier to entry has been the accessibility of espresso machines. Due to the rapidly evolving coffee culture and the need for an affordable way to prepare espresso shots, the Cafelat Robot has taken centre stage over the past five years. The Cafelat is a manual espresso maker that delivers delicious espresso shots for a fraction of the cost of high-end espresso machines. It does take slightly more skill to produce excellent espresso shots since you need to provide it with water at the right temperature. Therefore, the quality may vary based on the barista’s experience.
The Rise of Slow Bars
The skilful use of manual espresso makers is a key factor in the rapid rise of small independent cafés called ‘Slow Bars’. These establishments are focused on the experience of enjoying a cup of coffee, allowing customers to slow down and enjoy the complex flavours and aromas of the brew. They encourage interaction with the baristas who brew coffee using manual methods and are free to express themselves through original creations. The perfect example of this is the Kanom La Dirty, a coffee inspired by the popular southern dessert Kanom La. A truly Thai brew!
The three unique places below are perfect for experiencing the evolution of Thai coffee. Starting with the traditional Thai coffee which still holds a special place in the hearts of many.
Old is bold
Oliang was initially brought to the Kingdom by Chinese immigrants. Brewed with a mix of robusta beans, toasted grains (soybeans, corn, rice), and spices (star anise and cardamom), Oliang has a unique smokiness to it. Considering its origins, what better place to hunt for an Oliang than Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown ‘boulevard’.
Wandering through Yaowarat, we spotted a bookcase in an alley, and then a wardrobe with a TV inside. The smoky, rich scent of coffee led us to a small table. The uncle handed us a simple “menu” – coffee, coffee with creamer, and Thai tea. Minutes later, my no-sugar Oliang arrived. One sip, and my heart surged – not from excitement, but from the sheer intensity of the brew. No sugar, just pure caffeinated power. Now THIS is how an Oliang should be.
Name: Go Cafe – กาแฟอาโก
Location: Yaowarat, Bangkok
Price Range: ~30฿
Social: N/A
New caramely goodness
Thailand’s original iced espresso obsession, Es-Yen! Bold, dark-roasted beans poured over ice, usually sweetened with condensed milk or coconut sugar.
จะใดบางกอก เฮ้าส์
Walking away after an impromptu dentist visit, my pores screamed for a break away from the lunchtime Thai heat. Tucked away in a corner of Sathu Pradit, จะใดบางกอก เฮ้าส์ took quite some effort to find! When we stepped inside though, we were awarded with a warm, homely atmosphere in a small room adorned with an altar.
There is no fixed menu here. You can order your coffee exactly the way you love it! The friendly barista took his time and carefully crafted my daily Es-Yen. After all, an Es-Yen a day keeps the steaming heat away.
Rich chocolatey flavour, creamy caramel finish—smooth, strong, and refreshingly addictive. This was one of the best Es-Yen I have had so far! Best of all? Taking into account Bangkok’s coffee price, at 50 Bath a cup, this slow bar is a steal!
Name: จะใดบางกอก เฮ้าส์
Location: Sathu Pradit, Bangkok
Price Range: ~50฿
Social: https://www.facebook.com/share/1PLqyXgM11/
Beyond Espresso
On that fateful day, I still vividly remember waking up at 5am as the train pulled into Udon Thani. We spent a couple of hours exploring the lively morning market before the city finally came to life. Picked up our rental car and started driving east towards Ban Chiang to visit one of the oldest historical sites in Southeast Asia. By the time we arrived, calling ourselves the ‘Living Dead’ would be an understatement.
Naturally, the first stop had to be a pick-me-up coffee. This is when we came across ‘ร้านลับบ้านเชียง’ (RanLub BanChiang). This café is a one-man show owned by an approachable barista who has recently returned home from Bangkok. He left Ban Chiang to study and attempted life in the big concrete jungle. Well, like many others, Bangkok sucked the life out of him and home was where he wanted to return to. The barista and his friends wanted to revive his beloved hometown. RLBC is where they all ‘jôom’ (to gather) and ignite an art movement to revive this pottery city that has been somewhat abandoned for the past 30 years. We left the place feeling hopeful for the future of Ban Chiang and its people.
I ordered one of my personal favourites at Slow Bars: Coconut Water Americano. At the barista’s recommendation, I sipped it slowly without mixing. The expertly pulled espresso shot brought forward the cocoa flavour of the beans. The mildly sweet coconut water completed the drink.
Brilliant coffee, great conversation and a serene setting. If this is not proof that ‘Slow Bars’ culture has spread far beyond trendy Bangkok, nothing is!
Name: ร้านลับบ้านเชียง
Location: Ban Chiang, Isaan
Price Range: 60-90฿
Social: N/A
Conclusion
From the smoky depths of Oliang to the innovative creations of modern slow bars, Thai coffee culture, like its basketry industry, is woven from tradition and innovation. Every coffee shop boasts its own unique blend and brew, often derived from locally available ingredients, much like the kreung chaksan (woven piece) created by local weavers from indigenous leaves.
Whether you’re a seasoned coffee aficionado or just beginning to explore the joys of a well-brewed cup, Thailand offers something to delight every palate. We’ve only just scratched the surface of this fascinating world. Join us as we continue to explore the diverse flavours, hidden gems, and passionate people that make Thai coffee so unique.
What’s your favourite Thai coffee experience? Share it with us in the comments below!
